Today, I will attempt to rescue this blah-g and restore it to a blog: hopefully engaging, and if not, at least readable. For whatever reason, the last few posts have left me rather dissatisfied. Perhaps the trouble was more my outlook on life than the content itself, but nevertheless, I shall press on.
I've been playing the tourist here over the last week, as I'm on vacation (what a wonderful time of rest it's been!). Earlier in the break I was still recovering from the flu or whatever illness it was that attacked me. I am
still congested, a week and a half later. I'm eating oranges and drinking tea and relaxing though, so sooner or later, my body will heal itself. I think the cause is the pollution here. It's dreadful. Quito lies in a valley, creating a nice little mixing bowl for the bus exhaust and smoke and other things that gunk up one's lungs and nasal cavities.
This city does have its beauty though. The historic center, for example, is reminiscent of Spain and the open plazas, beautiful old churches, and narrow, brick streets are a great escape from the smoggy, busy roads where I work and live.
On Friday I explored the historic center for the first time. (I confess I won't go alone again--I was the only blonde I saw for several hours and those same lovely, narrow streets seem just a bit unnerving when people keep hissing at you and talking at you, and who-knows-who could come around a corner when you're alone.) I left my house in the early afternoon--smack in the middle of the rainy part of the day--so I prepared for a downpour. I donned my Bogs boots, grabbed my rain coat and some cash, and headed out.
I arrived by trolley and roamed around the center, refusing to take the map out of my bag, and instead pretending like I knew where I was going. I walked through various plazas, popped into some shops with over-priced trinkets, admired the architecture, and gazed at the stately old churches.
I arrived at the Basilica, which I've been wanting to visit forever, and the chapel of the Virgin Mary was stunning. An official copy of the Virgin de Guadalupe is making its way around South America, and people lined up the whole length of the Basilica to get a chance to see it. (Also, see the yellow jerseys people are wearing? Ecuador had a game that day. Soccer is Ecuador's number one religion. Catholicism is number two.)
The funniest moment of the day occurred as I was walking back toward la Iglesia de San Francisco. I passed by several shops that sold hand-crafted leather boots--they're always tempting. I briefly paused, which is the last thing you want to do at someone's store. I was approached immediately by the owner and greeted heartily. Translated: "Come on in! Check out these boots! They're beautiful, no?" I admitted I liked them, but I wasn't interested in purchasing. He paused to look at my cool new rain boots, made a comment on them, and I said it was too bad it hadn't rained much so I could use them. I was about to leave, when he engaged in conversation with one more trick up his sleeve. He said "Where are you from?" (He used the third person singular which is also for the formal "you.") Therefore, I answered him as if he had been talking about my pair of boots and said they were from the States. "And you?" he chuckled. "Same," I said and started walking away. "They're ugly!" he cried. I laughed and said they were lovely and therefore there was no need for me to buy more boots. He nodded, smiled, and waved good-bye. If I ever need boots in the future, maybe I will give him my business.
The next vendor who accosted me was a woman selling scarves out of a big, black garbage back in the plaza, pictured above. I chatted with her too, and ended up getting three scarves for several dollars. I've become quite the bargainer.
Apparently, blond hair shouts "Sell me something!" It also says "I'm an alien here." I do feel a great sense of camaraderie upon seeing fellow blonds. I often just want to walk up, shake their hand, and thank them for being a rarity like me. But usually, I just look at them and imperceptibly smile, since smiling on the streets here is reserved for friends alone.
I was waiting in line to buy tickets at the bus terminal, when I found myself standing behind a head of blonde hair. It belonged to a German woman, who was traveling with her husband. They stood there, dictionary in hand, trying to buy a ticket but left unsuccessfully. I purchased my tickets and found them still standing outside the terminal, talking to one another. I almost walked right by them, but realized I didn't want to pass up the chance to both lend a hand
and try out my rusty German. "Kann ich Ihnen helfen?" I asked, and the husband responded immediately a torrent of German. I miraculously understood everything. (!!!) They had to get to another city to visit their daughter, but the bus tickets were sold out. Therefore, they had to go to another terminal for a later departure. I mustered up a few other phrases, agreed that that was the best option, and wished them luck. It was a thrilling few minutes. I love communicating in other languages. Someone at Hillsdale should tell Dr. Geyer--he would be proud of me!
I've run into many other tourists recently, too, as I keep visiting the touristic hot spots. The weekend artisan/indigenous market in El Egido park is great. I like being in the park, seeing some green grass and a few trees, and having room to escape eager vendors if need be. I bought all sorts of things that day (so many Christmas gifts for my dear family and friends! HOORAY! Buying them now just reminds me of how soon I'll be home, surrounded by beautiful friendships, sipping hot drinks, watching snow flakes drift down to the earth--such cozy, peaceful moments filled with love). Anyway. I saw lots of foreigners and I love trying to decipher where they're from or what language they speak. Americans I can detect right away, because we smile. Yes, our big, American grins are unmistakable. Europeans don't exactly walk around with a smile plastered on their face, but we do. And why not? If you find yourself a foreign country, surrounded by inexpensive but lovely things, enjoying a lovely day in a park?
There was one particular American couple I saw several times. Fanny packs, grins and all, they were stereotypical: it made me happy to see them. At one booth, they had paused and I heard the booming voice of the man (because, as we all know, one's volume is proportional to the ability to comprehend a foreign language). He had a large, wooden skull in his hand and was gesturing about it to the confused vendor. I asked the wife if I could help them, she said I certainly could. The man wanted to know the significance of the skull. I asked the vendor, he said there was none. I told the American man it was just for art's sake (and in my head: "And for people like you to buy thinking it has some Amazonian meaning.."). He thanked me kindly, didn't buy it, grinned his big grin and moved along. I saw them later, again enjoyed smiling at strangers, and continued to my own successful bargaining.
Some recent adventures within my own house include: pumpkin carving, toasting pumpkin seeds, caramel corn, and soon to come: gluten-free pumpkin bread! I'm not wasting any of the pumpkin.
Want to see more photos? Click here.
Last week I also got to make a new friend! She's from Belgium and we have mutual friends in Spain. What a small world! She, my roommate, and I went out for lunch at an amazing restaurant. Delicious coastal food and the world's best drink: coconut smoothies.
The absolute greatest treat of the weekend was getting to call people in the States! I found the location with the lowest prices. 6 cents a minute--some places try to charge 25 cents. As if. Now I can have a long, wonderful conversation for the price of a cheap coffee. I'd rather the communication over the caffeine any day.
And those bus tickets I was buying? They are taking me east. To the realization of a childhood dream: I'm going to the Amazon! If I survive, expect next week's post to be full of tales of cayman, pink dolphins, monkeys, canoeing adventures, and more.